Sunvil Holidays

On the trail of Gerald Durrell in Corfu

2011-11-17T10:20:00.001Z

One of the first books I remember reading at secondary school was My Family and Other Animals by Gerald Durrell. I have to admit to finding the book a bit of a struggle at the time. Even though I was the same age as the author at the time in which the book was set our lives seemed to be separated by more than the thousand or so miles that divide the island of Corfu from my childhood Nottingham home. I shared neither the colourful landscapes or the equally colourful family life that Durrell reveals in his auto-biographical account. So why has this book lingered in my memory for the last 30 or so years?

My Family and Other Animals is the first of a trilogy of books that Durrell, a passionate naturalist, wrote about the flora and fauna of Corfu, his childhood home. His widowed mother brought him to the island and away from their English home, along with his older brother Larry and sister Margo. They only lived on Corfu between 1935 and 1939, but in that time Gerald experienced an informal education that would have an impact on him for the rest of his life.

Gerald's adventurous explorations of the island are encouraged by his private tutors, most notably the naturalist Dr Theodore Stephanides who fires the young boy's passion for collecting specimens of anything and everything in jars. During his adventures around the island he encounters tortoises, owls, spiders and all types of insects, all of which he studies and, where possible, gathers up and brings home to his exasperated mother. As he describes his outings around Corfu, Durrell paints for us a picture of an idyllic island of deserted beaches, wild greenery and traditional villages where time moves slowly and the sense of community comes ahead of all else.

Perhaps for many people Durrell's book is best remembered for his merciless observations of his rather eccentric family. He spares none of them in his accounts of strange adult behaviour and teenage angst and describes with naive honesty the visitors that would call at the White House in Kalami, where the family lived (now surrounded by holiday apartments).

Corfu was the first Greek island I visited back in 1990 and by that time it had already developed into a popular holiday destination. But the words of Gerald Durrell and the images he had painted through his words stayed with me as we toured the quiet inland roads of the island. It was heartening to know that despite much of the island's lurch towards mass tourism, away from the main resorts there are still plenty of wild areas where nature has remained untouched and where Gerald Durrell would still feel at home.

Our main site has plenty of useful information if you're thinking about a holiday in Corfu.

by Andy Jarosz

Exploring Crete and the Minoan civilisation

2011-11-03T07:47:00.000Z

Crete has long been one of the most popular Greek islands for holidaymakers to visit. With many miles of great beaches and known for its superb seafood, a holiday on Crete offers the necessary ingredients that many folks seek for their sunshine break. But if ever a place deserved a little exploration beyond its resorts and beaches it must surely be Crete. In the years around 1500 BC Crete was home to the Minoans, who boasted what is now recognised as one of the world's most advanced civilisations at the time.

Who were the Minoans?

The Minoans were a trading people who made their wealth through their dealings with mainland Greece, Egypt and the near Asians. They had developed their society to such an extent that they even had two storey houses with flushing toilets and highly advanced drainage systems. The Minoan emphasis on education is evident in the many examples of writing found on various artefacts in the region.

The Minoans constructed several spectacular palaces such as the one in Knossos, where the legend of the resident Minotaur originated. Many experts suggest that the Minoans were so successful because they avoided many of the conflicts that blighted the world at that time, preferring to preserve their trade links at all costs. Recovered Minoan art differs from that found elsewhere in the Mediterranean in that it does not depict weapons of war or battles.

What happened to the Minoans?

This is one of the great mysteries of the ancient world and one on which many scholars disagree. What is certain is that a major volcanic eruption on Thera, around 100 km to the north of Crete. Perhaps a tsunami from this event destroyed the low lying parts of Crete. Perhaps a layer of ash greatly damaged the harvests and led to starvation. It is not thought that the Thera natural disaster directly destroyed the Minoans, but it greatly weakened them to the point where they became easy pickings for Mycenaean invaders from mainland Greece.

What can we see of the Minoans today?

A highlight of any holiday on Crete is a visit to the place of Knossos. This vast complex on the ourskirts of the main city of Heraklion offers an insight into Minoan life and civilisation. You'll find examples of Minoan columns (thin at the bottom, thicker at the top) along with pieces of recovered pottery from the Minoan times.

The palace of Phiastos on the south of the island may not possess the fine grandeur of Knossos, but its spectacular hilltop setting makes it well worth a visit. Other Minoan sites worth exploring include Malia, Zakros and Palekastro.

A car is ideal to travel between the various Minoan sites on the island.

See our website for more information about holidays to Crete.

by Andy Jarosz

Honeymoon destinations for 2012: the hottest (and coolest) places to go

2011-10-12T09:46:00.000+01:00

A piece of advice I heard before our wedding was that you should spend no more on your wedding than on your honeymoon. This worked very well 20 years ago, although with the price of weddings these days you'd have to spend a fortune on your honeymoon to keep to this rule! Nevertheless, the big trip after the wedding is for many couples one of the most important parts of the whole wedding celebration. It is only when you arrive at your chosen destination that you can unwind, step away from all the hard work that went into planning the big day, and finally be alone to enjoy each other's company.

For those thinking of where to go for their grand post-wedding escape, here are three suggestions that we think offer a holiday of a lifetime for newly-wedded couples:

Skopelos

The island was home to the wedding of all time in the movie Mamma Mia! Thankfully its on-screen fame has not changed the island's calm and laid-back character. Dotted with hidden coves and lush greenery, and surrounding by the crystal clear waters of the Aegean Sea, Skopelos has managed to keep its Greek character more than many other popular islands. There is enough on the island to keep those who like exploring happy, while the seclusion is perfect for those couples who just want to kick off their shoes and chill after the excitement of the wedding party.

Skopelos is also well placed for those wanting to explore other Greek islands, with Skiathos and Alonissos only a short boat trip away. Both are good options for those who prefer to stay on more than one island during their honeymoon. Take a look at our site to see more great holidays in Greece.

Costa Rica

For a relatively small country Costa Rica offers a wide variety of memorable honeymoon ideas. Whether you want to bask in the luxurious surroundings of a romantic lodge such as Punta Islita or indulge in serious adventure sports such as rafting on the Pacuare River, there's plenty to choose from in Costa Rica. Why not head to the Osa Peninsula for a very special romantic getaway? Even the transfer to the hotels are often exciting with some reached by plane, mini-bus, boat and even a tractor!

Costa Rica is a nature-lovers paradise, with an incredible mix of wildlife waiting to be discovered. You might encounter turtles, monkeys, sloths, butterflies, caiman, iguanas and frogs, while there are many great bird watching opportunities with over 800 species including hummingbirds, toucans and scarlet macaws.

See our site for more information about our holidays in Costa Rica.

Ice Hotel

If you're looking for somewhere to cuddle up close to your loved one, surely it's hard to beat a visit to the Ice Hotel? This hotel is rebuilt in a different form each winter and each year the designers aim to create something even more special than in previous years. Sleeping in the cold may be a new experience for most people but help is at hand to make it a comfortable and memorable experience. And being woken in the morning with a hot drink followed by a trip to the sauna sounds like a great way to start any day!

For those wanting to get married on site there is even an Ice Chapel - all you need to do is to make sure your teeth don't chatter as you say your vows. See our Ice Hotel page for more details.

Why not take a look at the Sunvil website for more inspiring ideas for your holiday of a lifetime?

by Andy Jarosz

5 people you may not have known were Greek

2011-09-28T09:57:00.000+01:00

This week's post is something a little different. In celebration of all things Greek we've come up with a list of 5 people who are at least part-Greek and whose heritage may not be immediately obvious. Do please let us know who we've missed from our list!

1. Telly Savalas

Known to an entire generation as Kojak, he was everybody's favourite bald New York TV detective. While Telly may not given away too many Greek clues, his full name Aristotelis Savalas leaves no doubt as to his Greek parentage. His father owned a Greek restaurant in New York and by all accounts young Telly did not speak English until he entered high school.

Always proud of his heritage, he was known to say to his TV colleagues "Everybody should have a little Greek in them."

2. George Michael

Not such as surprise perhaps, but Georgios Kyriacos Panayiotou may have held young George back in his early quest for fame and fortune. Fortunately for his career George's father Kyriacos Panayiotou changed his name to Jack Michael when he arrived in London.

George has been more open about his Greekness than about certain parts of his private life and he received an overwhelming welcome when he played a concert in Athens.

3. Jennifer Aniston

Born as Jennifer Joanna Anastassakis, her father quickly changed americanised the family name to Aniston before moving from California to his native Crete for a year. They then settled in New York City. A little known fact is that Jennifer's father was best friends with Telly Savalas and Savalas is in fact her godfather.

4. Tina Fey

While her name doesn't look that Greek on first inspection, Tina is short for Stamatina (Elizabeth Stamatina Fey) and her mother was American born but of Greek descent. Tina is very well known in the US as a actress and comedian and shot to international stardom following her performance as a Sarah Palin double. Presumably we'll be seeing more of her in that role soon..

5. Nicky Clarke

Hairdresser to the stars, blond haired Nicky may not strike immediately as the son of a Greek mother. His parents met during the war when his British father was stationed in Athens. His mother was Greek Orthodox and they married in Greece before coming to England. Nicky had already made up his mind on his future career by the age of 12 when his father bought him a barber's kit.

by Andy Jarosz

Thanks to Honestmum for her previous listing of well-known Greeks; other reference sources include The Independent, IMDB, Wikipedia.

5 highlights of Athens

2011-08-24T10:20:00.000+01:00

Most visitors to Greece head straight out to explore its many islands. The combination of sun, sea and sand is tempting enough to scatter the millions of tourists far and wide across the waters of the Aegean Sea. As a result the nation's capital Athens sees a relatively small flow of the overall Greek tourist traffic; surprising given the important historical sites and places of interest that Athens has to offer.

So what are the highlights of a visit to the Greek capital? Here are 5 of the top things to see and do in Athens.

1. Acropolis

The 'Sacred Rock' rises above the city skyline and forms one of the world's most instantly recognisable backdrops. This was the heart of the ancient city of Athens for thousands of years and the monuments that can still be found here are some of the most important reminders of the ancient Greek civilisation.

Most famous of all is the Parthenon, the Doric temple built under the instruction of Pericles almost 2500 years ago and still standing despite earthquakes, bombardment and robbery. This temple is without doubt Greece's no.1 landmark and the single most visited attraction in the country. Allow a full day to visit the Acropolis. The entrance fee is 12 euros and be aware that no backpacks or daybags are allowed into the site.

2. Plaka

Visit this traditional neighbourhood to wander through its charming streets (mainly pedestrianised) and maybe shop in the fashion and craft stores. Plaka retains a special place in Athenian folklore and features in many examples of Greek literature and music. It is also a popular neighbourhood to sit out in one of the many restaurants in the warm summer evenings and enjoy a leisurely meal.

3. National Archaeological Museum

Of all countries' archaeological museums you should perhaps enter the Greek version with the highest expectations; fortunately this excellent museum will not disappoint. Filled with important discoveries from sites across the ancient Greek world you'll find sculptures, pottery and jewellery along with multiple evidence of just how advanced the old societies really were.

One tip is to avoid visiting on Sundays when only a small part of the museum is open to the public and yet the admission fee is not reduced at all.

4. Syntagma Square

Perhaps better known now than ever before this central area is where the crowds of protestors have made their focal point in recent months. Meaning 'Constitution Square' it has been the centre of Athens and indeed Greece for over 100 years. A scene of wartime battles and victory marches it is now a great place to take a seat and people watch. Be aware of the possibility of protests while in the vicinity of the square. Most start and end very quickly and should not be a reason to avoid this important Athenian landmark.

5. Psiri

With a long-standing reputation for not towing the line, Psiri was a revolutionary hot-bed in its day. Now a rather upmarket part of Athens it is a place to take an evening stroll, admire the traditional architecture and sit back to enjoy some of the finest authentic Greek cuisine you'll find anywhere.

Visit our special page to learn more about holidays in Athens.

by Andy Jarosz

Beyond the Beach: Activities to enjoy on the Greek Islands

2011-08-04T11:29:00.000+01:00

Millions of British holidaymakers head to the Greek islands each year to enjoy that popular blend of sea, sea and sand. While the beaches and bars of the islands will always be main draw for the crowds of people arriving on the islands for their annual break, Greece has so much more to offer the curious visitor. Many of the islands' most enjoyable and unique experiences are only a short distance from the popular beaches. Here are just three ideas for making the most of Greece.

Corfu - Walking

The paths on Corfu are plentiful and the walking is easy and rewarding. Whether it is the wild coastlines or the botanically blessed interior you will be constantly compelled to take out your camera or to stop and just soak up the views. Olive groves, flowering meadows and sandy secluded beaches are rarely more than a gentle walk away.

Away from the resorts you will also find some of Greece's most traditional villages where a warm welcome and the best of Greek cuisine awaits. Simple ingredients such as olives, tomatoes, cheese and seafood are all freshly prepared and combined to make light and mouth-watering dishes that are perfect for light lunches and warm summer evening meals.

Crete - History

The resorts of Crete still attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year, but step away from these pockets of holiday action and you'll find an island rich in a history that stretches back for thousands of years. This was the heart of the ancient Minoan civilisation, and a visit to the Palace of Knossos will offer a colourful insight into this highly developed civilisation. Many artefacts have been unearthed from this period and are on display at Knossos and other sites around the north of the island.

For those who like their history a little more modern a visit to the war museums at Chania or Heraklion are a great way to learn about the Battle of Crete in 1941. It was here that the Germans first deployed large numbers of paratroopers and it was here that they first felt the full force of resistance from local and Allied defenders. The museums offer poignant and sensitive interpretative displays telling the story of the brave sacrifices of those involved.

Zakynthos – Turtles

A popular island for package holidays, Zakynthos (also known as Zante) is also home to Europe’s most important reserve for loggerhead turtles. An area of southern Zante has been listed as a protected area and visitors may be able to see turtles under the careful supervision of local volunteers.

The main hatching season for baby turtles coincides with the busy summer months meaning that potential human-baby turtle encounters are inevitable. The volunteers on site will make sure that visitors who are lucky enough to witness baby turtles hatching are able to enjoy the special sight while ensuring the well-being of the animal who will instinctively head for the sea.

Greece and the Mamma Mia Trail

2011-06-30T09:18:00.001+01:00

Yes it was cheesy and hardly the most complex of movies. But if you're looking for a feel-good film where all the actors clearly had a great time in putting the film together it's hard to question the virtues of Mamma Mia! Filmed in the summer of 2007 the movie was a public relations coup for the Greek Islands as a whole, with such a major movie showcasing them in all their beauty.

So where was Mamma Mia! filmed? Let's take a little look at the three main locations used for the film. Each is a popular holiday choice for those looking for a little of that same 'fun in the sun' fantasy that the film portrayed so well.

1. Pelion

The small fishing harbour at Damouchari was used for filming on the Greek mainland region of Pelion. This is an area of secluded coves and mountain villages where little has changed in recent generations.

Tourism is still in its infacy here, which is great for those looking for a place not over-run by other international visitors. On the other hand it's probably wise to hire a car as public transport is not great. The nearest airport to the region is Volos, although more flights go via Skiathos, from where a transfer will take around 2 hours.

2. Skiathos

A popular choice for UK holidaymakers for many years, Skiathos is only 8 miles long and thickly forested. It is an exceptionally pretty island and a place where visitors can wander between villages and the many sandy beaches on the south side of the island.

Buses do connect the different parts of the island, although these are very popular so be prepared for the crowds.

Skiathos is considered as close to a perfect Greek island as you can get; pretty villages, great beaches and nightlife that is varied and popular but that does not detract from the peaceful feel of the natural enviroment.

3. Skopelos

This is perhaps the no.1 spot on the Mamma Mia! trail; most of the filming did take place on Skopelos. It was probably quite normal for those months to run into Mr Brosnan or Ms Streep in the narrow streets of Skopelos.

The picturesque Kastani Bay and Beach was used extensively for different parts of the film while the wedding itself was filmed in the island's Agios Ioannis Chapel.

Skopelos is much larger than neighbouring Skiathos but is less developed as a tourist destination, perhaps helping it to retain its 'Greek' feel. It's a great place for walking and within the island's countryside there are many places to stop along the way to refresh and to explore. The island's fame as a result of Mamma Mia! has thankfully not changed its pleasant under-stated character.

If you're looking to relive a bit of that movie magic, it's easy to visit these glorious spots and soak up the atmosphere and relaxed vibe that created such an infectious happiness in Mamma Mia!

by Andy Jarosz

Guided or self-guided walking holidays: which is best for you?

2011-04-07T10:43:00.000+01:00

I must admit, this is not an easy question for me to answer. We are avid walkers and have covered several long-distance paths, both in the UK and elsewhere. And along the way we've learned the hard difference between walking with a guide and walking by ourselves. Here are three of those lessons we've picked up along the way:

1. Carrying luggage. When finishing an 8 day hike in the north of England a few years ago, without doubt the nicest part of walking through our front door (the finishing line for the walk) was the knowledge that we wouldn't have to carry our packs the next day, or the day after that. Even with a self-imposed 10kg maximum (some wisely suggest 8kg) the thought of the weight of your pack was never far from my mind. Having a luggage carrying service can make this much easier, and arranging a series of hikes as day trips allows you to return to your hotel room at the end of every night. These non-guided walks on Amorgos offer varied day hikes that leave you to enjoy having a single base throughout the trip.

2. Knowing the way. I love maps and I enjoy the challenge of finding my way in a strange land. That said, there are times when I get lost, and there are inevitably paths on a map that you learn don't actually exist when you've walked two miles along a cul-de-sac to reach it. While the thrill of orienteering may appeal to some, one of the main advantages of a guided walk is that is allows you to forget about navigation and map-reading and devote your attention to the scenery. On the rare occasions that I don't walk map-in-hand, I am aware of how much more I observe and enjoy in our surroundings. A guided walk will allow most people to experience more of the place they have chosen to visit.

3. Meeting a local. One of my favourite parts of travelling is the chance to speak with local people on a casual basis and learn about their everyday lives. In a recent walk in Mexico we spent a half day with a guide who shared with us many stories of growing up and living in the country. She told us about her own life and discussed local and national topics as well as those things that bind us all (such as TVs, movies and books). A guide will be able to give an insight into the place you're visiting that you'll never get from a guide book. A good example of a guided walks service can be found on the island of Tilos, a popular walking destination.

There are other considerations to bear in mind when deciding whether to walk alone or with a guide. As a personal preference I find that outside of the UK a guide adds a lot of extra value to a hike that might make this option a more attractive one to consider.

by Andy Jarosz

The Painted Churches of Cyprus

2011-02-17T11:01:00.000Z

While many visitors to Cyprus may come to this popular Mediterranean island to soak up the endless sun and sea on offer, there is a lesser known historic side to Cyprus that is well worth exploring and that is within easy reach of the main tourist resorts.

A couple of hours' drive inland from the coast of south-western Cyprus the Troodos mountains rise to reveal some of southern Europe's most dramatic landscapes. Located within the mountains are a series of Byzantine churches and monasteries that reveal an insight into one of Cyprus's many historic influences and one which has left an enduring religious and cultural mark on the occupants of the island even today.

The Byzantine empire rolled into Cyprus in 965 and in the following centuries the distinctive architectural style of the Byzantines led to the construction of a number of stunning religious buildings. The churches and monasteries were typically decorated with intricate murals and frescoes, many of which have withstood the test of time and are now very carefully preserved.

In the post-Byzantine period (15th century onwards) the influence of Constantinople came to bear on the designs and decorations of the churches, and this is found in the churches and monasteries constructed during that time.

In 1985 nine of the churches along with the St John Lampadistis Monastery were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status. These remarkable historic monuments are now a highlight for a journey into the interior of Cyprus. Some visitors to Cyprus choose to base themselves in the mountains and stay in accommodation in the Troodos Mountains.

While those staying in the mountains can have the luxury of taking their time to enjoy the scattered sites at their leisure, those taking a day trip from the coast should choose two or three of the painted churches to visit - more than this will be a tough and tiring day. Whichever way you choose to visit these special places, they are sure to become one of the highlights of your Cyprus holiday.

CRISIS? WHAT CRISIS?

2010-08-27T13:56:00.000+01:00

Author and columnist Ivor Baddiel ignores the media hype and manages to have quite a nice time in Greece......

They called us irresponsible maniacs. They said we were danger-mongers, intent on our own destruction. They told everyone we were deranged, thoughtless and beyond contempt. How could we possibly go to Greece when the country was crumbling into anarchic chaos with an economy that made Iceland’s look positively buoyant, a truck drivers’ strike that was starving the place of petrol leaving countless millions stranded and at the mercy of roaming cannibalistic hordes, unemployment flailing wildly out of control, civil unrest and a huge shortage of feta (okay, I made that last one up)? Yet, somehow, by an incredible freak of good fortune, we not only survived two weeks in the South Peloponnese, we actually had a fantastic time.

Okay, so comic melodrama over – if I’m honest, we were slightly trepidatious at the prospect of holidaying in a country with mounting problems and a certain uncertainty about its future; and, yes, I did ring Sunvil a couple of days before our departure to ask about the petrol issue – I was reassured that their rep in the area had advised that 50% of the petrol stations were stocked and that they expected the problem to ease within days, information that proved to be correct. (As is so often the case when the press goes overboard and create hysteria, the reality was somewhat different)

We flew in to Kalamata airport, which frankly is little more that a couple of large sheds and some tarmac, though it was well organized and retrieving our baggage went smoothly. The waiting Sunvil rep then gave us our welcome pack which, crucially, included directions to Kalamaki Villas where we were staying.

Sorting out the hire car, which in my experience can sometimes add painful hours on to a journey, was a swift transaction and we were soon heading off in a southerly direction along the Messinian coast, a full tank of petrol at our disposal I might add.

That first drive is always slightly nervy, especially with my girlfriend and two children screaming ‘remember to drive on the right!’ intermittently throughout; but, we found the slightly precarious dirt track that led to our villa, Villa Theresa. As mentioned we were staying in Kalamaki Villas about midway between the villages of Petalidi and Chrani.

Kalamaki Villas is made up of nine villas a short way up a hillside, though each was pretty separate and secluded. They’re not what you might call luxurious, but then that isn’t what we were expecting. Sunvil certainly don’t oversell them and I would say that comfortable and more than adequate is an apt description. There’s a fairly large lounge area with sofas and telly, and a kitchen in one corner. Off this, through a sliding door, are two bedrooms with air conditioning, and the toilet and washing machine.

Where the villa did excel was outside. The patio doors open on to a balcony with one hell of a stunning view of the sea and over to the middle ‘finger’ of this part of the Peloponnese, the very mountainous Mani peninsula.

Between that view and the balcony is a cracking swimming pool that more than exceeded expectations. Not quite Olympic-sized, but big enough to accommodate the entire family plus the usual watery accoutrements of lilo, rings, balls etc. Trust me, it saw an awful lot of use.

So, we’d made it, and ahead of us was two weeks to explore one of the less charted areas of a country that isn’t exactly shy when it comes to tourism.

And it really is less charted, certainly when it comes to the massed ranks of yer foreign tourists intent on invading and commandeering a coastline, a fact that first began to hit home when we visited the beach in Chrani and discovered that there was no charge for the sunbeds. I know, unbelievable in this day and age, but there you have it, in my book a very good sign. Other signs quickly amassed such as the complete lack of big, gaudy hotels and, despite visiting numerous beaches, not one paragliding thing, banana boat or jet ski.

There is, however, quite a lot of Greek tourists, which on first thought I took as another very good sign, akin to going in to a Chinese restaurant, say, and seeing lots of Chinese people eating there. In this instance, though, the proliferation of Greek tourists was a pretty good guarantee of great beaches, great food and relaxed, chilled out vacationing.

I lost count of the number of beaches we visited, but they ranged from good to great, with none disappointing. The one nearest our villa was a lovely, tiny little thing with very calm waters, completely untouched by any tourist amenities, such that we had to take the umbrella from our villa for shade and some snacks.

Other beaches were slightly more geared up for humanity with tavernas and beach cafes nearby. Special mention has to go to Golden beach, which is over on the opposite coastline to where we were staying, just outside the town of Pylos, of which more later. It’s a long, arc of golden brown sand with one central bar where the young uns congregate, but plenty of space for everyone else. The sea is just lovely, gently lapping the shore and allowing the kids to play happily and safely in it.

The beach at Finikounda is also at the top of the tree in my book. The place is much more of a resort, with plenty of tavernas and souvenir shops, but somehow it retains a real mellowness, and though the beach was quite busy it never felt over-crowded or noisy.

There was also much fun and adventure to be had in driving through the mountains to get there. The roads vary from reasonable to dodgy, but the views are spectacular and the villages you pass through are delightful.

So, the beaches get a big tick, what about the towns? Well, Petalidi is extremely nice with some fine tavernas along the sea front and the added bonus of a kids’ playground. There was also a very small fun fair type thing there for a few days, which also kept the nippers well amused.
Similar in size and feel is Agios Andreas, further south down the coast. If anything it’s even quieter than Petalidi, but equally charming and with a couple of interesting shops if you fancy a browse.

Neither of those places have much in the way of sites though. For that I would strongly recommend either Koroni or Pylos, and very much in that order. Koroni, almost on the southern-most tip of the coastline, is a blinding little place with a wonderful harbour area lined with tavernas, shops and local famers selling produce from the backs of trucks.

Inland a little there’s a lovely square and church and, heading up to the top of the town, you hit Koroni castle and the old city. It’s beautiful up there, and very peaceful, but wandering about in the heat is oh so sweaty, so unlike us, I’d save it as an end of the day treat.

A short drive from Koroni you hit Zaga beach, which is the perfect place to cool off if you have traipsed round the castle in the midday sun.

Over on the opposite coastline is Pylos. It’s quite a famous old place having been first mentioned, apparently, in Homer’s Odyssey, and is renowned in Greece for its beautiful natural harbour. And it is indeed very lovely, as is the central square where you can sit in the shade of the expansive plane trees and quaff coffee, fanta and other beverages. Be warned though, there were a lot of Greek tourists in Pylos and we found that things were far more expensive there than elsewhere in the region. Perhaps it was the economy pushing prices up, though it felt more as if the locals were cashing in somewhat on the town’s notoriety and popularity. There’s also a castle up on high in Pylos, but we didn’t fancy overheating, so gave it a miss.

North from our villa are the towns of Messini and the region’s capital Kalamata. Messini is not really worth a visit, so we didn’t stop there. However, there are some very impressive ruins out at Ancient Messinia, which, if you like that sort of thing, will not disappoint. It’s a good 20 kilometres away from modern Messini though, which is a fair hike.

Lastly, and quite possibly most importantly, I come to the food. Well, the good news is, the area abounds with marvellous tavernas, more often than not with tables looking out over to the sea and overflowing with cracking nosh. It’ll come as no surprise that the seafood on offer is terrific, and I’m going to go as far as to say that the sea bass I had one night is the best fish I’ve ever tasted. Our favourite gaff was Sokrates in Chrani, not right on the beach, but pretty near. A close second was one of the tavernas in Petalidi, I didn’t catch its name, but if you’re driving in from down south, it’s the first on the right as you hit the square.

Of course being self-catering we ate in from time to time with my attempts at barbecuing fish bought from the fishmonger in Petalidi, causing much hilarity, but being ultimately successful.

All told it really was a very relaxing break made all the more so by the professionalism of the Sunvil folk. Oh you may scoff and remark that I have to say that, but honestly it’s true. I’ve not really done a package holiday thing before, but they made the booking process all very easy, were really helpful and knew their stuff. Once out there, their reps were equally good, dealing with the minor problems we had – I woke up to discover the car had a flat battery one morning and our barbecue was broken – efficiently and with no fuss at all.

The only thing that remains is to make sure that now we’re back in England, I remember to drive on the left.

Ivor Baddiel,

Sunvil Client

Holiday Mystery in the Peloponnese....

2010-08-16T13:51:00.000+01:00

My wife and I very much enjoyed our recent early July holiday on the Peloponnesian coast of Greece. We stayed in the superb apartments of the Zoe Hotel in Gialova. With the Naverone Bay and the neighbouring nature reserve to hand, this is one of our favourite areas.

When we walked over a remote part of the fine sands of Divari Beach (Golden Beach) we came across a rather fine sand sculpture of five naked bodies. There were no other people about and no indications that anyone had been working there. Just the sea and the sand.

Two days later we walked along there again to see if it had survived the slight tide and the drying sun. There were still no other people to be seen, everything seemed to be the same. But.... two additional figures had been added, the sculpture was now of seven bodies!

Mr & Mrs G

(Sunvil Clients)

Easter in Arcadia

2010-05-04T10:16:00.000+01:00

Anthony and Jennifer Garrett have travelled widely but never before to Greece. Being more interested in culture, history and nature than sunbathing (although sea-bathing was also an attraction) they decided to visit the Peloponnese on a tailor-made fly-drive holiday in early April. Here's how they got on....

‘Et in Arcadia ego’, the title of the first chapter of ‘Brideshead Revisited’, had stuck in my memory since I first read it over 50 years ago, but I didn’t really know where it was or imagine that I would be there one day.

However someone said that to stay young one should visit an entirely new place every year. So, in our early 70s, and having visited most continents and virtually all the countries in Europe, we decided to try Greece for the first time.

We aren’t sun worshippers and Greek food didn’t seem quite as enticing as in France or Italy, which we know best, so we hadn’t been sufficiently attracted before; but the prospect of spring flowers, ancient history and sea bathing tempted us.

We were lucky to come upon ‘Sunvil’, who seem to be the only company providing what we wanted, an 11 night fly-drive to several places of interest, and they recommended a journey around the Peloponnese peninsula, after a brief stay in Athens. I read widely and was surprised to learn about the very troubled and violent history of the country since its golden days in the 5th Century BC.

In early December we committed to our BA flights for March 29th via Heathrow; almost immediately Greece erupted and BA staff threatened to strike. For three months we watched the news on both fronts with trepidation and eventually Sunvil switched our flights out via Manchester, using two different airlines.

I hadn’t expected to like Athens, but as we emerged from the “Acropolis” metro station on a balmy evening, in the shadow of the magnificent new museum, and found our hotel close by, the magic of Greece began to take over. Before bed, a bowl of baklava and ice cream at a friendly little café, with a view of the floodlit Parthenon, confirmed the good impression.

Early next morning we were collected for a ‘City Tour’ which culminated in walking up to the Parthenon, a very memorable moment, despite the crowds. After a ‘Greek siesta’ we walked round the picturesque Plaka district, before visiting the spectacular new Acropolis museum which has some superb exhibits and an excellent video showing the chequered history of the Parthenon.

The following day a hire car was delivered and I drove nervously out of Athens, and over the Corinth Canal; in a couple of hours we reached our delightful hotel just outside the small hill town of Dimitsana, in the rugged ‘Arcadia’ Region, in the centre of the Peloponnese Peninsula.

This area is particularly popular with walkers because of the 1,000 foot deep Lousios Gorge. We drove 6 winding miles down into it from the main road, and then walked for 20 minutes to one of the small monasteries which hug the precipitous cliffs. Later we visited a fascinating new museum of water mills which very cleverly explained cloth ‘fulling’, leather curing and gunpowder manufacture, the latter being vital in the early 19th Century War of Independence.

The road West to Olympia gradually became more verdant as we neared the coast and the famous site of the original games was a delight, spread out amongst lovely trees and flowers. I paced out the ancient 190 metre dash, before driving down to our first seaside hotel at Gialova, near Pylos, beside Navarino Bay, the scene of two famous naval battles, and now the site of a nature reserve.

Then we journeyed on still further south to Kardamyli, gateway to the barren Mani area, and another seaside hotel which was not only very attractive and comfortable, but had it’s own private cove with very pleasant swimming.

After a couple of days relaxing, it was time to head north again, via ancient Mystras, to Nafplio, reputed to be the most elegant town in mainland Greece, and a perfect base for visiting the extremely historic site of Mycenae and the beautifully preserved, 2,400 years old, open-air theatre at Epidaurus which seats 13,000, almost as many as the enlarged Centre Court at Wimbledon.

On our final day we returned via Acrocorinth, with its fantastic views. When eventually back to Athens airport we had driven 750 miles which had not been much more nerve-wracking than in other European countries, apart from the final ring road back to the airport, though signs were often erratic and confusing and our Sat’ Nav’ experienced problems.

As we waited for our flight home we agreed that it had been one of the very best of our many holidays. The timing was ideal, with the weather perfect for us, 20 degrees Centigrade without a spot of rain, and relatively few other visitors. The majority of Greeks were very friendly, but apart from in hotels and restaurants, not many spoke English and my few words of Greek seemed to be appreciated.

My wife loved the scenery, flowers, sheep and goats, and was delighted to find a tortoise in the wild in Arcadia; I was entranced by the history with good museums and signs in both Greek and English, and managed five rather chilly bathes.

We both much enjoyed the food, though arriving in the week before Easter was a problem, because many Greek people do not eat meat at that time, and so restaurants do not cook traditional meat dishes such as Moussaka. We were able to enjoy grilled lamb, pork and fish with healthy Greek salads and not so healthy chips; after Easter Sunday there was no problem and we had some delicious meals. Ouzo and Retsina were interesting accompaniments.

To sum up, “We too had been in Arcadia”.

(The cost of flights, car hire, 3 star or above hotels and all our meals and ‘entertainments’, came to approximately £2,700 for the two of us.)

Anthony Garrett, Scotland (Sunvil Client).

Experience the real Cyprus

2009-06-23T14:23:00.000+01:00

Many British people have experienced Cyprus over the years and a great number return to revive the friendship of the people and the Meze’s. However some have grown tired, often, I suspect when we see the amount of building and developments along the south coast.

I recently had the pleasure of leading a small group of travel agents, who had not visited the islands before, to see the ‘real’ Cyprus. Fortunately for the British, they drive on the left like us and the signs are in English. You just have to remember the speed limits are kph not mph! Speed cameras do exist – just like home!

Whether you arrive at Larnaca or Paphos airports it is of no matter. Take the main dual carriageway and head to the Troodos Mountains. Step in the village of Kakopetria and take a room at the Linos Inn. A complex of old houses in the medieval settlement has been lovingly restored to create a unique 22 bedroom character inn on two floors. The restaurant operates as a taverna serving mainly Cypriot dishes. The food is excellent so walking is a must to keep your trim figure in shape. Kakopetria is well known for its fish, with there being a trout farm nearby. Local crafts are on sale in the shops. Why not stop off at the local pottery and watch a pot being thrown and possibly buy some items to remember your visit.

If you drag yourself away after a few days more there are other villages in the mountains or if you are looking for a change how about the North West of the island. Lysos is a 20 minute drive from Polis and at the Paradisis Hills Hotel you will get a friendly welcome. The views from your room overlook the north coast. This attractive stone-built traditionally designed hotel opened in 2005 and is located on the edge of a large agricultural village. The food is traditional meals served against a magnificent mountain panorama. You are very close to the Akamas National Park where the views are also stunning.

To complete your holiday why not stop off in the the pretty village of Tochni with a population of just four hundred. The tavern is on the upper slopes and the village has retained its character. Village activities include olive picking, grape and orange harvesting, halloumi (cheese) making and fishing – these are available in season and can be booked and paid for locally. Cooking and pastry lessons can also be booked locally. For the more energetic - bike hire and horse riding activities are also on offer. So why not go to Cyprus and experience the real island. The Cypriots are waiting to welcome you.

By John Grew, Kent
Agency Sales Rep

Cyprus Sustainable Tourism Initiative

2009-05-18T09:23:00.000+01:00

I returned yesterday from a conference on waste management in Cyprus organised by the Cyprus Sustainable Tourism Initiative (CSTI) and the University of Cyprus. Sunvil was one of the sponsors.

Being an island Cyprus has always had problems with waste disposal and most rubbish has simply gone into landfill sites.

However, progress is being made and, as our clients visiting the island are generally very environmentally aware, we have always been very keen to encourage progress in waste management.

Those of you who visit regularly will now see re-cycling bins appearing in Paphos and Polis is soon to follow. Many of our holidays are now organised in private villas, village houses and village inns which are off the beaten track, and raising awareness in the villages of the necessity of proper waste disposal is one of our priorities.

Government is now very much aware of the need to look after the local environment and the newly appointed Commissioner for the Environment (who reports directly to the President) and several local mayors attended. Hoteliers too were very much in evidence as they too are beginning to realise that, if Cyprus is to halt the fall in tourism, then it must improve its environmental performance.

Sunvil has played a big part in raising this awareness over the last 20 years – yes it takes time! We shall be funding several initiatives being organised by the CSTI and we shall shortly be experimenting with a ‘grey water’ treatment in some of our villas so that this water can be used to water the gardens.

The island has so much to offer, especially away from the crowded coastal regions, and it is very satisfying to see that what we have been preaching for so long is at last being taken seriously.

Noel Josephides
Managing Director

Ikaria, Eastern Aegean, Greece

2009-05-12T12:08:00.000+01:00

by Dudley der Parthog, Greece Director, 2 May 2009

The quirkiest Greek island I have come across in nearly 30 years of putting together the Sunvil Greece programme has to be Ikaria in the north-east Aegean. Its remoteness (Samos 2.5 hours by ferry is the nearest island of any size) has ensured a self-sufficient, resilient population who don't worry too much about what is happening outside the island's shores. They live for the moment, as evidenced by the plethora of 'panayiri's' - religious festivals which on Ikaria occur almost every summer weekend, involve plenty of the local organic wine and roasted goat, and can last up to three days each!

Magnificently mountainous, Ikaria is one of the most scenic and untouched islands in the Aegean - its interior, wonderful for walking, hides forests, mountain lakes, chapels hewn from the rock, and lunar-like landscapes. The coastline below has some Caribbean-like beaches, although beware the strong off-shore currents and high season waves which can restrict swimming.

Ikarian quirks include a 'vampire village' (Christos Rahes), which sleeps for most of the day and really only comes to life after sundown. Until recently even the schools didn't open until the late afternoon, and the baker left his freshly baked bread outside his shop with an honesty box so as not be be woken up. Or the two churches, one at the top of the hill and one at the foot, who used to hold rival Easter services, each trying to outdo the other in terms of music, bells and fireworks - now a truce has been declared and, rather disappointingly, they alternate their Easter services. Ikaria is full of quirks like this.

The best person to fill visitors in is the personable Rania Mitikas who runs Dolihi Tours in the pretty fishing village of Armenistis. Her family is descended from pirates!

As befits an island named after a myth (Icarus' waxen wings melted just off-shore) Ikaria is unique amongst Greek islands.

RETURN TO IKARIA

by Fiona Bartlam, Financial Director, 26 June 2009

My return ferry journey on the ‘Samos Spirit’ was even more relaxing, calming and wonderful than I remembered. This time we were treated to the sight of sea eagles soaring over the hills and woods of Samos, before being delighted by a school of dolphins spotted in open waters between Samos and Ikaria.

Sitting on the open deck, with the ‘Spirit’ chugging relentlessly away, with sensational indigo waters and white horse spray on either side of the boat, I could feel the stresses of ‘normal life’ rapidly seeping away. By the time the ferry docked in Agios Kirikos, and we trundled our suitcases off the boat past a handful of pickup trucks laden with fresh tomatoes, potatoes and patio chairs, I felt ready for anything.

And then the excitement of the trip to the other side of the island, on inevitable Greek cliff-hanger roads. Climbing steeply up the hillside behind the port, we were amazed that everywhere you looked, the countryside was so green, and crammed with wild flowers, pink cistus, and bright red poppies or yellow broom. Nearer the top of the mountain range we drove through acres of wild herb strewn hillside, with the heady scent of thyme, sage and curry plant wafting in on the cool evening breezes.

As we started to descend again, vertiginously, at what always seems excessive speed, I reassured myself that our driver had no doubt been using these roads all his life, and that the Greeks’ sense of balance seems equal to that of their own mountain goats. When that doesn’t work, I find you can always hang on tight, and shut your eyes! Reaching the coastal road, the mini-bus fought its way through small villages, where having one’s neighbour ‘just over the road’, meant the road was only about 8’ wide, and ‘corner houses’ no longer have corners. And eventually my destination, Armenistis. It’s not particularly pretty. It’s small and quiet, no night clubs, no lager louts, the friendliest of locals, a few restaurants serving fresh local food, two nice beaches, the best coffee shop ever; but that’s it!

But it was here that the magic that is Ikaria really started to work. Ikaria’s charm is indefinable, but within 24 hours everyone is captivated. The ‘Spirit’ has transported you here, and the ‘spirit’ within you is soon glowing contentedly. And when, after two wonderful weeks, I was dragged onto a ferry for the return journey, I was saying, ‘I’ll be back’ - and I will.
Ikaria; captivating, magical, spiritual, sensational. But please, don’t tell anyone!

Sunvil offers 7 night BB stays in Armenistis, Ikaria from £605pp at the Cavos bay Hotel in May. Based on Gatwick to Samos flights and includes transfers.

No Frills = No Protection

2008-12-15T13:56:00.001Z

By Noel Josephides, Sunvil's Managing Director

Ryanair has announced that it has cancelled its services to Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands. One should never rely on any services run by a no-frills airline because they depend on how much money an individual region is prepared to pay for the service. Sooner or later the airlines fall out with the regions. Ryanair has said it will refund the cost of the flights but not that for any ancillary services like accommodation purchased, even if this was originally booked on the airline’s related websites. Airlines do not guarantee anything, least of all financial protection and fair play.

A licensed tour operator such as Sunvil would have had to book alternative arrangements including ancillaries at no extra to you, the client.

Government legislation is in a mess. Some of us are highly regulated while others like airlines and accommodation only suppliers are completely unregulated. We take full responsibility for what we book for you and your money is 100% safe. If you want to base your tailor-made holiday on the flight services of a no-frills carrier then book both the flight and your ground arrangements through us to ensure total protection.

The benefits of booking travel arrangements through an ATOL licensed principal operator like Sunvil were obvious for all to see after the collapse of XL in September 2008. Not a single Sunvil client was stranded, not a single holiday was cancelled and not a single client was charged more than was originally invoiced.

Here are some of the comments we received from clients affected by the XL collapse:

Mr & Mrs F, Samos clients:
What absolutely fabulous people you are. However did you achieve that! Many, many thanks for doing everything you said you would, we cannot believe that a company of your size has looked after its customers so well. When we return from Samos, we will be writing to you in order that you can show others what a tremendous company, Sunvil really is, and whatever your competitors say, they are not going to beat you for professionalism and integrity. You deserve a holiday!!

Mrs M, Skiathos client:
Dear all, you have excelled yourselves! Thank you all very much for all your work on our behalf, finding flights London/Skiathos and back, transfers, and collecting two stray students from Manchester and returning them safely, an absolutely magnificent effort, and all done with such efficiency and good will. Whilst rather a long wait at Volos you gave us a delightful lunch – a very good way to pass the time.

To read more comments we received after the XL failure please click here >

To read more about Sunvil and how we offer 100% financial protection please click here >